Day 52 – Tent Cities & Mountain Overseers

June 23, 2013
15 miles today
921 miles total

Slow to rise from the darkness of my loft, but one of Slack’s mammoth Mammoth breakfasts demanded. Our town departures are like trudging up molasses mountain, slow and nonprogressive. This one was no different. It is tough to Leave the soft and loving embrace of civilization.

At 11 AM the new group arrived and we took that as our cue to depart for the mountains. We made it as far as the coffee shop, two blocks away. After stimulus and more button pushing we were off. To the hills, or the mammoth version of Schatz bakery, whichever came first. After a couple of bear claws, we committed to the bus stop, though some argued for lunch.

Devils Post Pile

Devils Post Pile


Public transport delivered us once again to Red’s meadow where we rejoined the flow of the river PCT. Heavy packs and gallons of ice cream slowed the initial progress. I passed the Devils Post Pile, which reminded me of rock french fries stuck together that were one by one peeling off. Soon there came a fork in the road. The JMT (John Muir Trail) and the PCT split for a while before rejoining. The JMT is harder and more stunning. Stunning every time.
Blow down from distance

Blow down from distance


The pace picked up as the miles piled on and the town lethargy slipped away. I wound past lakes and under mountains filled with snowy crags and cathedral spires. The weather was obviously going south as the clouds built around the mountains. So the hurry was on to reach camp. But care was required. Around every water point swarms of zombie mosquitoes lurked. I knew from World War Z that if I was quiet and moved steadily I could slip past unmolested. But if I lingered or made a noise, blood would be drawn. I lost about a pint due to clumsiness.
Mountain Overseer

Mountain Overseer

Camp was around a dramatic lake guarded by a mountain overseer. The lake was crowded with campers and all but the very last campsite were occupied. The last site however, so hard to get to, was the very best. We crowded our tents onto the only flat spot and set up shop. Tonight was a super moon, When the moon is closest to earth. It teased us with light for sometime before making its conversation stopping, grand entrance over the lip of a mountain. The clouds around it returned to daylight with illumination. When the moon was fully up, I went fully down.
Good night Overseer

Good night Overseer

Steve Halteman
On the Pacific Crest Trail
Hiking the PCT for the Kids of Escuela Verde

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4 thoughts on “Day 52 – Tent Cities & Mountain Overseers

  1. dwilt82

    Steve,
    an old friend here from Shanksville PA. Your lovely mother Myrna, told my lovely mother, Caroline about your trip and your blog. Looked it up last week and am loving it. I am now all caught up. Love your pics, God’s creation sure is beautiful and amazing. Would love to trade eyes, but not places. You take the pics and I will enjoy the view from my living room. But oh my, your father would be so proud of you. you are definately him thru and thru. Come see us next time your on the East coast. still have the lake lot. God be with you!!
    Donna Stull Wilt

    1. Steve halteman

      Hey Donna, it’s great to hear from you. It’s been too many years. I assume you are mayor of Shanksville by now. And it’s wild you still have the lake lot. Stick along for the rest of the ride to Canada, I’d be honored. And if I’m ever Pennsylvania way I’ll stop in for that visit.

      Funny story. I was in Joplin Missouri last year investigating a plane crash. Interviewed an Amish farmer who had witnessed the crash. Turns out we were born in the same hospital room in Meyersdale just a few years apart. An ever smaller world.

  2. wayne hooper

    Steve, I had to comment on your Super Moon experience. We also enjoyed that great moon rise in complete solitude on the opposite side of the mountains from where you where (east). Although we were “roughing” it in the camper you became familiar with during the ride to Bishop (it is much roomier when popped up), I would have traded places with you on the PCT in a heart beat. And yes, I agree, a verbal contract is as valid as a written one, at least in my book, so I have 7 years to prepare for the Great Adventure, as we agreed upon. Small world note: Your backpack was sold to you by a guy I used to work with at the City of Carlsbad (Where your fire shirt came from). He owns the Gossamer company as a side business. Looks like a great pack for me…Again, all of us out here thank you for letting us tag along on your adventure.

    Wayne Hooper

    1. Steve halteman

      That’s a hoot we were on the same page when it came to the Super Moon. The whole group is thrilled that you’re committed to doing the PCT. The best training is relaxing up until three months before the event. So no pressure for many a day.

      As to my pack I love it. Tell your buddy he’s doing fine work. I wouldn’t trade it for any other pack on the path. You should probably hit him up for free gear such are the burdens of friendship.

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