Monthly Archives: April 2018

Day Six of the CDT and a Line for the Bathroom ?!?

It’s Day Six on the CDT and I’m 165 miles in. Only 3000 more to go.

As some or most of you know I’m tackling the Continental Divide Trail.

Heading northbound from Mexico through New Mexico, Colorado, Wyoming, and Montana. Should take 4 to 5 months depending on a whole hell of a lot. As 3000+ miles is a long way to walk. Took an Amtrak to Lordsburg, New Mexico, and the starting point.

Already seeing some interesting sights:

First hurdle on Steve Halteman’s CDT hike. 3000 more miles to go.

Old school fence on the CDT.

An Italian immigrant living in New York had a vision to come to the desert and hand build a church. Sometime in the 1950s. He picked Hachita, New Mexico, population 36, from a map. Then made his way there. The visionary then spent many a year constructing his stone homage to Christ solo. Christ’s reception was not as anticipated. For three days before the first service was to be held in the almost finished cathedral, our visionary climbed under his truck to check on something. Then was run over and killed when the truck mysteriously slipped out of gear.

In the busy morning hours, there was a line for the outdoor bathrooms on the CDT.

This is Steven “Blast” Halteman on the CDT, signing off!

 

 

Steven “Blast” Halteman – Off Again! This time hiking the CDT.

(Continental Divide, Southernmost Point, April 25, 2018) Decided to step away for six months or so. Maybe try to visit a couple countries I haven’t seen before. Also, try to get in a good hike.

Started the hike part four days ago. The trail is called the Continental Divide trail lasix sin receta. I’m 85 miles in and have 3015 miles to go.

The trail starts on a part of the Mexican border called Crazy Cook. Which is so named because an early surveying party was marking the border circa 1907 when one of the crew gave an unflattering pre-Yelp review about the food and was promptly murdered by the cook.

 

The photos above is of a fairly questionable water stop which didn’t work out well for my friend got there before me. But I found to be quite palatable. Sometimes it’s nice not to have a choice.

My sleeping quarters and some interesting views (below):

Until next time!

Steven “Blast” Halteman, from the CDT. See you on the trail.

It’s Official! Matt Leef, aka BrewHiker, 1st to Hike “The Death Q”

March 4, 2018 – Matt Leef (BrewHiker on Instagram) starts the 811 mile hike around Death Valley guided by the Steven “Blast” Halteman book, “The Death Q.” Will he make it?

It’s an 811 mile hike through Death Vall;ey featured in Steven “Blast” Halteman’s book, The Death Q, which was recently published on Amazon here.

Matt Leef, known on Instagram and in the hiking world as BrewHiker is the first to complete the full hike since the book was published!

He’s been posting about it along the way and we’ll have a full story and his reactions to the book in the next few weeks.

(That is, if we can keep him off the trail long enough to take time for an interview!)

Way to go BrewHiker!

Matt Leef, the first hiker to make the entire 811 mile “Death Q” since the book was published! Congrats BrewHiker! We’ll tip a beer in your honor tonight!

Iceland Photo Gallery Pt. 3

A waterfall that yanked us off the ring road. Seljalandsfoss, Iceland.

Underground turf house on the northern coast of Iceland.

Arty house of art. Eastern coast of Iceland.

Coming back from Grimsey Island to the mainland of Iceland.

A hike gone bad. Grimsey Island, Iceland, just above the Arctic Circle.

Airplane killer. Isafjorour, Iceland.

Narwal skeleton tusk. Husavik, Iceland

Invitation to contemplate. Ring Road, Iceland

Sometimes a hike is worth every step. Isafjorour, Iceland.

A daughter grows up.

A glacial window. Jokulsargljufar, Iceland

Iceland Photo Gallery Pt. 2

Winter hay or fallen marshmallows?

An island at sea https://norsk-apotek.com/. Base of the Hverfell Volcano, Myvatn, Iceland

Klaire earns her masters in setting up a tent.

The force of the water going over the edge can be felt in your chest. Dettifoss, Iceland

Moods.

Dead end waterfall at the head up a canyon. Somewhere on the northern coast of Iceland.

Lagoon of glaciers. Jokulsarlon, Iceland

Captured fortresses off Reynisfjara, Iceland

Once over the rainbow.

celandic ponies. They can be exported but that is an exile. For no exported Icelandic pony can ever reenter the country. Nor can any Icelandic pony born elsewhere be imported.

Iceland Photo Gallery Pt. 1

Isafjorour, Western Fjordlands, Iceland 1 PM

Isafjorour, Western Fjordlands, Iceland 1 AM

A cruise ship contemplates life ashore. Grimsey Island, Iceland.

A friend of animals contemplates a meal of puffin and seal. Grimsey Island, Iceland, just above the Arctic Circle.

A bad mood breaks. Summit of Haverfell Volcano. Myvatn, Iceland.

A happy melancholy. Reynisfjara, Iceland

Free camping. Reynisfjara, Iceland

Sea ballet off the coast of Husavik, Iceland.

Men as sluts.

Definition of a wingman. Husavik, Iceland.

17th Century Iceland: An Alternate Avenue To Wealth

An Alternate Avenue to Wealth

Seventeenth Century Iceland was a hard place to make a go of it. Especially for the lower classes, whom most of that hardship was distributed to. For the have-nots, living on the edge of the Arctic Circle, survival seems to have occupied all the moments of the day. But everyone needs escapist dreams, right? Isn’t that what the lottery is all about?

Well, in 17th century Iceland there was no lottery. So dreams of a better life needed a different outlet. For a small segment of the population that outlet was magic. Or witchcraft if you prefer. Which brought a hope to its believers that a charm or chant would keep the farm’s sheep healthy. Or prevent a storm from drowning a fisherman. Not unlike a prayer for the religious.

But hope can breed desperation. Which led some Icelanders to risk darker magical measures to improve their lot. Take for instance the desire for more milk. An understandable desire for those trying to stave off relentless hunger. Fortunately, a magical process existed for a bounty of milk. Though there was an anatomical price to be paid. But such were the times, that the price was considered reasonable by some who began and ended each day with hunger.

How to get that extra milk on the table? Well if the supplicant followed all the magical steps properly, a small beast would appear. The beast’s specialty was the theft of goat milk. Which it would bring back to its creator after stalking a jittery goat. Such work created a hunger in the beast as well. Conveniently, the beast had no taste for goat’s milk. Which would be contrary to the mission. So the beast had to get its milk from elsewhere. More convenience, as a nipple would grow out of the thigh of the beast’s creator. This was the price the creator paid for his creation. From the thigh nipple, the beast could suckle away on human’s milk. While just above its creator drank endless cups of ill-gotten goat’s milk.

Extra milk is all well and good. But the best way to leave the have-nots and join the haves, then and now, is an influx of money. Once again, black magic in 17th Century Iceland had an answer for the redistribution of wealth. Cue the “nabrok.” Which promised boundless riches. The nabrok directly translates from Icelandic as “death underpants.” For simplicity sake, let’s go with the more common translation of “necropants.” And like all pants, you have to put them on. A very tricky proposition as it turns out.

Let’s work through the process of putting those pants on together. First, we need a protagonist. A 17th Century Icelander living in abject poverty. Desperate enough to try anything to get out of that poverty. Let’s call our protagonist Magnus. (Though there is no reason in the literature why a woman couldn’t put on a pair of necropants, if she chose to do so.) One day, Magnus discovers some black magic that offers the desired escape from that poverty. Though the steps that need to be taken are beyond the range of most human imagination. Magnus hesitates. But the desperation in Magnus grows until it boils. Eventually, he reaches his tolerance limit and takes the plunge into the pool of black magic.

The first step is finding a willing donor. Magnus looks around until he settles on a friend that meets his criteria. One would hope Magnus practiced the conversation extensively before embarking on it. For it is an awkward conversation at best. Let’s say Magnus picks Lief. Who Magnus has to be certain will die before him. Preferably quite soon. If the conversation went perfectly it might sound something like this.

“Hey Lief, how are things?”

“Fine, what can I do for you, Magnus?”

“Well I, I figure you’re going to die before me.”

“Most probably, yeah.”

“Well, I was wondering if I could dig you up after you’re dead and buried?”

“For what purpose, Magnus?”

“It’s a little complicated, but I was hoping to flay your corpse from the waist down. I would do it gently and carefully out of respect for you and also the need to take the skin in one piece.”

“For what purpose, Magnus?”

“Unlimited wealth.”

“Hell, why didn’t you say so to begin with. Of course, I’m at your disposal.”

It is possible to imagine that conversation going in a number of unfortunate directions. But the conversation is critical. Because without permission from the original owner, the necropants will not work as advertised.

Now let’s assume the plan works. Lief dies. Is buried. Is disinterred by Magnus. Skinned. And reinterred. Magnus is standing by the grave bathed in moonlight. He takes off his own pants. Perhaps reconsiders one last time. Then slides his right foot into Lief’s right leg skin. Hopefully, the two men are of similar size. Then the left. Once fully encased, the magic begins. For Lief’s skin forms to Magnus’s body. The psychological ramifications of having a new penis are well beyond the scope of this article. Also beyond the scope is a protagonist choosing an opposite-sex donor. Which would have brought the transgender discussion to the forefront of 17th Century Iceland.

But this is only the first step, so to speak. There are more steps if the wealth is to rain down. Now Magnus has to briefly rob the poor. Black magic never seems to be easy. Specifically, Magnus has to steal a coin from a poor widow. Once he pulls off that low deed, Magnus starts placing things in his new scrotum. First he inserts a nabrokarstafur. Which is an ancient magical symbol written on paper. Then in goes that widow’s coin. Now the scrotum is primed and the magic is up and running. Every time Magnus needs a coin he just reaches down into his jingling scrotum and pulls one out. Preferably he does this privately. The arriving coins will be endless, provided Magnus doesn’t remove the nabrokarstafur and the widow’s coin. The record is unclear as to where a female would place her nabrokarstafur and widow’s coin. Though necessity truly is the mother of invention.

Mission accomplished. Magnus rises out of poverty. An easy life is had, but perhaps a difficult death. For nobody is getting through the pearly gates of heaven wearing someone else’s lower regions. As Magnus nears the end of his life, he must find a willing necropants donee. Otherwise, Magnus and his necropants are headed back to the hard life in a place where global warming is in full swing.

Therefore a second, challenging conversation must take place. “Hey Gunnar, boy do I have a proposition for you.” Let’s assume that Gunnar is joyously receptive to being the new owner of some used necropants. On the appointed day they meet. Preferably privately. Then Magnus willingly steps out of one leg, while Gunnar steps into that same leg. The transition critical, as mutual contact with the necropants must be maintained by the two parties. Or the spell is broken. The image of the transition priceless. Then Gunnar’s other leg goes in. And Magnus steps away.

Gunnar is now ready for an ATM in his underwear. Magnus, back to original, readies for his death. Probably reflecting that robbing a bank might have been easier. And in that way, the necropants could be passed down from generation to generation. Perhaps to this very day. Certainly, the current financial titans of Icelandic industry must be eyed with suspicion. Though to be fair, there is no historical record of the necropants ever being successfully worn. But wouldn’t the successful wearer keep such a thing secret?

Necropants. Witchcraft museum. Holmavik, Iceland

The above is a replica of some necropants found in the Museum of Icelandic Sorcery and Witchcraft. The pile of coins below the necropants indicates the scrotum is still producing. The museum is found in the small town of Holmavik. Which is located in the remote and rural Westfjords of Iceland. A very difficult place to survive in 17th Century Iceland. Which is why witchcraft was more prevalent there than in other parts of Iceland.

But the practice of witchcraft in the Westfjords during the 17 Century was a dangerous endeavor. This was due to the behavior of the educated upper classes in the area. Many of whom had studied in Germany and Denmark. Where they learned of the witch execution craze that had taken place earlier in those countries. Upon return to Westfjords, these wealthy individuals decided to root out witchcraft in their neck of the woods. Which predictably they believed to be practiced exclusively by the lower classes. To accomplish the rooting, these individuals turned to the judicial system.

During the 17th Century, 120 accusations of practicing witchcraft were brought to trial in Iceland. An unusual percentage of them in the Westfjords. The trials can be seen as a form of class warfare. Since almost all of the accused were from the lower classes. Unlike the rest of the world though, most of the accused were men. In fact, 110 of the 120 labeled as witches were male. Of the 120 accused, 22 were found guilty and sentenced to death. Once again the ratio was disproportionately male, as only one female was executed.

The accusations ranged from the serious, causing death and destruction through witchcraft, to the ridiculous, causing a young girl to fart uncontrollably. No alleged necropants’ wearers were tried. The vast majority of the convicted were burned alive. The museum documents one unfortunate individual whose binding ropes burned off before their death. Allowing them to run out of the fire, on fire, while protesting their innocence. All of this nonsense continued until the craze faded. As they all must. After 1686, there were no more witch trials in Iceland. Which left all the necropants’ wearers unmolested to go about their business. Literally.

The Immigrant Polar Bear

(Somewhere in Iceland, Story by Steven “Blast” Halteman)

Iceland has no polar bears. But sometimes Iceland has polar bears. They, like me, are visitors. Our similarities end there.

 

Polar Bear photo by Cirina Catania

All polar bears arriving in Iceland share a different nationality than myself. They are Greenlanders. Which is another island a long way off in the Atlantic Ocean. To be precise,186 miles away from Iceland at its narrowest separation. The separation increases significantly if you’re going up or down either coast. Upon arrival in Iceland, our receptions lie at opposite ends of the spectrum. For my part, the Icelandic welcoming has felt like my Grandmother’s warm kitchen on a January morning. Polar bears, on the other hand, are shot on sight after entering the country. Such discrepancies are worthy of discussion.

 

Humans first started settling down in Iceland in the Eighth Century. Polar bears have been showing up long before that. Dug up polar bear bones have been dated at 13,000 years old. Which arguably gives them seniority rights to the country. The humans in Iceland originally came from the east, primarily Scandinavia. The polar bears came from Greenland to the north and west.

 

But how did they get to Iceland?

 

Humans came by boat. Originally tracking the flight of ravens to the island. How polar bears  came to Iceland is a bit of an open question. The consensus answer is a combination of icebergs and swimming.

 

A possible scenario. Polar bear is hanging out on some ice in eastern Greenland. The ice breaks away and flows out to sea. Polar bear either doesn’t figure out it’s on an iceberg or is content to ride along without fixed destination. After a long time, the iceberg drifts near Iceland. The very hungry polar bear spots land and swims to shore. Or its iceberg bumps into Iceland and the polar bear steps onto a different island.

Polar Bear photo by Cirina Catania

Another scenario. A polar bear goes for a swim. That turns out to be very long. Their intent and level of lostness unknown. After many days, the polar bear swims up to Iceland and walks onto the beach. Is such a thing possible?

 

A swimming polar bear can clip along at 6.2 mph when pressed. A race no human could hope to win. If going the distance, a polar bear is capable of 200 miles of open ocean swimming. And then there are the exceptional swimmers. A Phelps like polar bear was once tracked for nine days, off the northern coast of Alaska, swimming an astonishing 427 miles without break in the process. The bear’s four inch layer of body fat keeping it toasty the entire way. So, the short answer is yes. If a Greenland based polar bear was seized with a hankering, it is capable of swimming over to Iceland. Though the iceberg scenario seems more likely.

 

Regardless of the means of arrival, there is one very safe assumption. When the polar bear arrives in Iceland, it is crazy hungry. And therein lies the rub. For everything that moves in Iceland is considered part of an offered buffet to the starving polar bear. Take for instance the story I read in front of a polar bear. The bear being stuffed and permanently housed in a museum on the northern coast of Iceland. The story went something like this.

 

One day In the late 1800s, a gentleman walked out the front door of his farm house. At about the same time, a polar bear made its appearance in the courtyard. For the sake of drama, we can assume an Icelandic oath, or two, was uttered by the gentleman. Who barely managed an escape to the barn hayloft with said polar bear in ravenous pursuit. The bear then turned its attention to the gentleman’s wife. Who equally managed a narrow escape to the house attic. The couple’s panic understandable in a country where the only native mammal is an arctic fox. Which is the size of a dachshund and perhaps not comparable to the largest land based carnivore on Earth.

 

Back to the gentleman in the hayloft. Hearing his wife being pursued allowed him the opportunity to flee to a nearby farm. There he gathered an avenging cavalry. Who returned to shoot the polar bear midway through its dining on the family dog.

 

So how often do such arrivals play out?

 

Well it’s not common, and it’s not uncommon. The first recorded encounter was in 890, when a hardy character spotted a mama polar bear and her two cubs strolling along an Icelandic lake. He managed to capture the threesome alive and haul them back to the king. Who gave the capturer a ship for his troubles. And so it went down through the ages.

 

In the 1500s, polar bears would show up and start slaughtering sheep. The villagers would try to drive them off with spears. For each bear they managed to kill, the Danish King paid the villagers a handsome ten dollars. In return, the king possessed a monopoly on the Icelandic polar bear skin trade.

 

In the 19th Century, a polar bear was spotted swimming off the coast of Iceland. A hardy character (Iceland is necessarily full of them), called for volunteers to slay the beast. Suddenly, the entire village was fascinated by the ground around their shoes. Probably some more  Icelandic oaths were uttered, as the character headed out solo in a rowboat. After a long battle of wills, the individual was able to overtake the polar bear and kill it. Then somehow he dragged the dead bear out of the sea and into his rowboat. No little feat, as polar bears can weigh up to 1200 pounds. His follow-up safe return to the village ensuring a lifetime of hero worship.

 

Back to the short question, followed by a long answer without answer. There have been around 600 sightings of polar bears in Iceland since the 8th Century. Scholars believe much of these are repeat sightings, and that the more accurate figure is around 300 sightings in the last 1100 years. So it does happen. Just not enough for Icelanders to be constantly looking over their shoulder. Though perhaps there is a need for that. As multiple human fatalities have occurred in Iceland when a visiting polar bear was successful in its hunt.

 

So what can Iceland do?

 

The polar bears continue to arrive. The last sighting/polar bear shooting was in 2016. Which was the first sighting/shooting since 2010. Thus the problem continues. Its solution complicated.

 

The law until 1994, was that polar bears on Icelandic land, or in Icelandic waters, were shot on sight. In 1994, the law was altered. Polar bears on land still receive a death sentence. Bears at sea are left alone. Though a polar bear drifting endlessly on a melting iceberg in the Atlantic is surely doomed.

 

Conservationists raise the legitimate question. Why not tranquilize the polar bear and send it back to Greenland? Where it could tell the others the trip wasn’t worth it. Or send the bear off to some zoo. Iceland’s response is basically, “We tried.” Greenland was approached. But with a few thousand polar bears in residence, compared to 56,000 residents, Greenland’s answer translated from diplomatese was, “No thanks, you keep ‘em.” An answer the Icelanders were probably happy to receive, as the return would have cost a couple hundred thousand dollars.

 

Polar Bear photo by Cirina Catania

And the zoo option? In 2008, an arriving polar bear, the second of the year, was shot with a tranquilizer dart by the Icelandic authorities. The intent was to ship the uninvited bear to the Copenhagen zoo. But the polar bear wanted no part of the plan. It shrugged off the dart and headed back to the sea. A bullet replaced the dart and that was the end of the zoo plan.

 

Which brings us to the future and certainty. Polar bears will continue to arrive in Iceland. They will continue to be killed upon discovery by humans. And even if not discovered, a polar bear cannot make a go of it in Iceland, as the food and ice resources for its survival don’t sufficiently exist. So the options are instant death or slow starvation. And an ultimate fate of ending up stuffed in the nearest town museum. With a placard underneath explaining that fate and how it came to be. Definitely not the temporary to permanent transition any immigrant would wish for.