Tag Archives: Steven Halteman

Mission Accomplished. Made it to Canada, and ran into an old friend!

(September 19, 2018, Canada! Day 115 and 3000 miles)

Well, after 3000 miles and 115 days of hiking, I reached the Canadian border.

All smiles, I had time to dance a little jig.

And then the rain came down and it was time to move on.

Without a doubt, the hardest physical endeavor of my life. And worth every step.

After crossing the border I hitched up to Calgary where I had the pleasure of running into an old friend. A friend I had shared the road with through Sudan, the Central African Republic and Zaire back in the wild late 80s. And a friend who I hadn’t crossed paths with in the subsequent 30 years.

Catching up was the icing on the cake after hiking the CDT.

Below is the final installment of pictures and text. Thanks so much for following along and your support along the way. It meant a lot.

 

Bighorn sheep blockade on the trail. (Photo by Steven “Blast” Halteman)

Climbing out of a valley field with an inversion. (Photo by Steven “Blast” Halteman)

And descending into yet another inversion. (Photo by Steven “Blast” Halteman)

A climb for the future. (Photo by Steven “Blast” Halteman)

Had a Mexican standoff for a while with this guy on the trail. I was the first to yield. And I have a video to prove it. Check Facebook shortly and you will see for yourself! (Photo by Steven “Blast” Halteman)

Headed down from a pass in Glacier National Park. The CDT is visible in the foreground and to the right. (Photo by Steven “Blast” Halteman)

Fall near the Canadian border. (Photo by Steven “Blast” Halteman)

Made it! (Selfie by Steven “Blast” Halteman)

Official finishing point. (Photo by Steven “Blast” Halteman)

THE END! (Of the CDT)

Note from Admin: Knowing Steven “Blast,” he’ll be off on another adventure before his face thaws out.

 

 

 

 

 

Day 110 – Mile 2914 – Bad Ankles, Bears, and Dead Horses

(September 14, 2018, on the CDT Pushing Towards Canada)

Hello all. 100 miles to go. And the CDT is beginning to push back.

There’s a fire up ahead that has closed some of the trails.

The weather has turned cold and snow and rain are in the forecast.

But the biggest obstacle is my right ankle, that has decided it is no longer interested in hiking and swollen up. Thought about going to a doctor but I suspect the diagnosis would be an overuse injury. (Yeah uh huh.) Anyway, I’ve been practicing my one-legged hop and am certain Canada is still reachable.

Here is the latest batch of what caught my eye.

Not too much else to tell. Though I was attacked by a wild animal in my tent. I knew it was bound to happen. About 3 AM I felt something tugging on my feet. Sure it was something that was going to drag me out of my tent I grabbed my bear spray and headlamp to do battle. But the grizzly turned out to be a large toad who had wandered into the tent and was hopping around on my feet. I put the grabs on him and he or she promptly pissed all over my hand and sleeping bag. Which greatly increased the aggressiveness of their departure.

The only other story of note involved water preparation. I filled my bottle out of a creek, added water purification drops and then a little drink powder. Right before imbibing I noticed a 1-inch long sea dragon-looking creature swimming merrily around in my bottle. Apparently immune to water purification drops. After all that preparation there was no choice. The sea dragons death coming when they hit the straining barrier of my teeth. And that’s all from the trail. On to Canada.

A very recent fire. (Photo by Steven “Blast” Halteman)

The end of a typical day. Time to find a flat spot to pitch the tent. (Photo by Steven “Blast” Halteman)

 

Fall comes to a cemetery. (Photo by Steven “Blast” Halteman)

 

A lean back in my night kitchen. (Photo by Steven “Blast” Halteman)

 

Apparently the Bob Marshall wilderness is hell on horses. As there are dead ones all over the place. Grizzly bears claim the carcass and hang out gnawing on rotting flesh. And are quite perturbed should you pass nearby. (Photo by Steven “Blast” Halteman)

 

(Photo by Steven “Blast” Halteman)

 

(Photo by Steven “Blast” Halteman)

 

Found a hat on the trail and decided to try out food banditry. Waited for a few hours, but no one came along. Failed criminality is depressing. (Photo by Steven “Blast” Halteman)

 

The Chinese Wall in the Bob Marshall wilderness. The wall extends for something like 16 miles. (Photo by Steven “Blast” Halteman)

 

The sound of this happening must have rivaled thunder. (Photo by Steven “Blast” Halteman)

 

Physics-defying wildfire victim. (Photo by Steven “Blast” Halteman)

 

A history of northbound CDT hikers. (Photo by Steven “Blast” Halteman)

 

Getting ready to head up and over. (Photo by Steven “Blast” Halteman)

 

Grizzly bear poop. Couldn’t see any horse in it. (Photo by Steven “Blast” Halteman)

 

The merry-go-round tree phenomenon. For some reason, one in 1,000 trees grows like this. And always reminds me of a ride on a merry-go-round. (photo by Steven “Blast” Halteman)

 

This is Steve Halteman, Signing Off from the CDT – Canada here we come!

 

Day 68 – 1/2 Way to the End of the CDT!

(July 1, 2018) But before I left for Ireland… This happened…

Well folks made it past the halfway point. I am in Rock Springs, Wyoming hanging out with the hotel clerk who spent 30 years in the army. He was shot five times. In Grenada, Panama, Afghanistan and Desert Storm twice.

He also happens to share my daughter’s birthday which is today.

People are so fascinating.

Waiting for a plane and taking the month of July off to celebrate birthdays. Klaire‘s 50th, Fumiko’s 15th and Mom’s 80th. Parties taking place in Ireland, England, and Belize.

Hope to fatten up and then get back on the trail August 1 for a race to the Canadian border against the snows.

Here are some pictures that take you up to Rawlins, Wyoming.

Hope for an improvement in the weather (photo by Steven Halteman)

Bit of a Zen garden I came upon (photo by Steven Halteman)

A cocoon grouping of the striped bandolier butterfly (photo by Steven Halteman)

A moose who decided that he wasn’t in the mood to charge after all (photo by Steven Halteman)

The columbine flower has just made an appearance. State flower of Colorado. And a flower with a now unfortunate association. (photo by Steven Halteman)

This wilderness area is officially called the Never Summer wilderness. I agree. As I hiked along the ridge in a snowstorm on June 24. The thunder I could hear. But the lightning I couldn’t see to determine how far away it was. Fear is a powerful motivator. But to keep going forward or retreat to lower elevations and tree cover becomes a difficult question. (photo by Steven Halteman)

Shiva trees (photo by Steven Halteman)

Formal CDT border crossing between Colorado and Wyoming
(photo by Steven Halteman)

Butterflies on a coyote poop buffet. (photo by Steven Halteman)

After a 12 hour/36 mile hike I laid down in the sagebrush at the edge of the trail, had barbecued potato chips and beef jerky for dinner and caught the 9 PM show. (Photo by Steve Halteman)

The last view window. Took a tour of the Wyoming Frontier Prison which closed in 1981 after 70 years of operation. Tough place to be incarcerated. Only got heat and hot water in the 1970s. With a 20° temperature differential between inside and outside the building. With temperatures outside that could reach 50 below, you can imagine what a cold shower felt like. Apparently, the cold showers weren’t optional. If you refused you got the fire hose outside. Anyway, this was the hanging room. And when the noose was placed over the condemned person’s head this was the window they looked out of for their last view. But for one final bit of cruelty, all the hangings took place at night. (photo by Steven Halteman)

Not a nice place to end your life. (photo by Steven Halteman)

 

A Break to Discover Ireland Again

(Ireland, July 26, 2018) All hiking and no play sometimes makes for a dull adventurer!

…Steve took a break to reconnect with his family and enjoy a trip to Ireland.

Here are his photos for your viewing pleasure!

Part of my traveling crew (photo by Steven Halteman)

 

Other ships’ messages to Titanic and her responses. Right before she hit an iceberg and sank. (photo by Steven Halteman)

The current position of the Irish Republican Army Northern Ireland. Had a great chat with a guy that had served 15 years in an English prison for being a member of the IRA. (photo by Steven Halteman)

Londonderry city wall (photo by Steven Halteman)

Crumbling tower without a name. (photo by Steven Halteman)

Celtic cross (photo by Steven Halteman)

Medieval tomb with pillow and body fluid drains (photo by Steven Halteman)

Double good luck in Ireland. (photo by Steven Halteman)

Architects that knew how to create a destination within a building. (Photo by Steven Halteman)

Rock of Cashel (photo by Steven Halteman)

Incredibly rough day for one family. (photo by Steven Halteman)

Body found in a bog. Which is basically a semi swamp. The body is over 1000 years old. The individual had been decapitated and mutilated and was a giant for his time being over 6‘3“. He had had his nipples got off. Which prevented him from becoming a king. Apparently, at that time the way to show submission to a king was to suck on his nipples. Note the amulet still on his upper arm. (photo by Steven Halteman)

Slice of rock that records the arrival of oxygen on earth. Apparently the sudden saturation of oxygen left behind iron oxide which is the red band you can see. Prior to that in the lower sections of rock, there was no oxygen. In other words, you’re looking at a photograph that documents the arrival of life on Planet Earth. (photo by Steven Halteman)

 

Day 60 mile 1460 – Leaving Colorado, Entering Wyoming, Pt. 2

(June 23, 2018, Steven “Blast” Halteman, Hiking the CDT)

Ok..there were too many photos to put into one post!

Continuing the journey from Colorado into Wyoming…This is Pt. 2, where I meet Mountain Goats at 14,000 ft, reach the summit of Grey’s Peak, and try to solve romantic mysteries.

Five hours along a knife ridge to reach Grey’s Peak at something over 14,000 feet. Surprised this guy who went running along rocks that I was crawling over (photo by Steven “Blast” Halteman)

 

Finally the summit of that Grey’s Peak (photo by Steven “Blast” Halteman)

 

Roses and half a bottle of Jamison’s. An unsolved mystery at the top of a 13,000-foot peak (photo by Steven “Blast” Halteman)

 

Sleepy hollow (photo by Steven “Blast” Halteman)

 

Storm rolling in (photo by Steven “Blast” Halteman)

 

I guess everything has a soul (photo by Steven “Blast” Halteman)

 

Wildfires or daybreak? (photo by Steven “Blast” Halteman)

 

This is Steven “Blast” Halteman…signing off till next time.

See you on the trail.

Day 27, Miles 750 – Cheated Death Again!

(On the CDT – May 23, 2018)

Well, everything was going along fine.

Which always should be a warning.

And then the wheels came off.

An irresistible side trip was to occur…wait for it…
Bearing points.

Home for the night. So far I’ve only set my tent up once the very first night because of threatening rain. Since then all dry and stargazing.

 

 

Morning trail

A valley to look forward to.

Sand river

A collared lizard. So wild and unused to humans that I put the camera about 3 inches from its head. The only cannibal lizard in the States. Eats other lizards as well as its own.

 

I dubbed it camel rock.

Even the cactus is in the swing of spring.

 

 

Windmill fallen from grace

Typical water source. This one is actually a spring. It was one similar to this that was to take me down.

Following the top of the Mesa

 

Excellent irony

 

Spacing out on a break

Old Indian sweat lodge on the way out of Ghost Ranch

My ambulance (see below).
Note my pack strapped to the top.
Here’s the abbreviated story. So about five days ago I came down with Giardia. Picked up from one of those water sources where I figured it was OK not to treat the water.
Giardia is an intestinal parasite that basically tears you apart inside.
Your belly swells, you constantly burp sulfur. And you projectile shit mustard incessantly. You can’t sleep or hold any water or food in.
After a couple of days wasting away by a stream I began to doubt my ability to hike forward. Which was unfortunate because there was still 70 miles to go to civilization.
I got a little gloomy about my future.
And then I heard a chainsaw in the far distance.
Managed to get up the mountain where two guys were cutting up fallen logs.
In exchange for loading up the trailer and truck with wood I got a ride to Espanola 80 miles away.
Five logs in and then out behind a tree. The two guys couldn’t stop laughing.
In Espanola an urgent care doctor confirmed my diagnosis and the fact that I had dropped 20+ pounds.
But all good now.
Antibiotics, multiple large pizzas and HBO have nursed me back to health.
Back on the trail tomorrow.

 

My ambulance.

 

Avoided.

 

But in Espanola I found my dream camper van. You can still make out “Bus” on the side. Going to make an offer this afternoon. Drop a 350 in it, five speed, 4 Wheel Dr. and put a bed and a little stove in the back. Would be the sweetest touring sugar shack on wheels for Klaire and I.

Found my dream camper van in Espanola.

 

This is Steven “Blast” Halteman, signing off.

See you soon, from somewhere on the CDT.

Iceland Photo Gallery Pt. 3

A waterfall that yanked us off the ring road. Seljalandsfoss, Iceland.

Underground turf house on the northern coast of Iceland.

Arty house of art. Eastern coast of Iceland.

Coming back from Grimsey Island to the mainland of Iceland.

A hike gone bad. Grimsey Island, Iceland, just above the Arctic Circle.

Airplane killer. Isafjorour, Iceland.

Narwal skeleton tusk. Husavik, Iceland

Invitation to contemplate. Ring Road, Iceland

Sometimes a hike is worth every step. Isafjorour, Iceland.

A daughter grows up.

A glacial window. Jokulsargljufar, Iceland

Iceland Photo Gallery Pt. 2

Winter hay or fallen marshmallows?

An island at sea https://norsk-apotek.com/. Base of the Hverfell Volcano, Myvatn, Iceland

Klaire earns her masters in setting up a tent.

The force of the water going over the edge can be felt in your chest. Dettifoss, Iceland

Moods.

Dead end waterfall at the head up a canyon. Somewhere on the northern coast of Iceland.

Lagoon of glaciers. Jokulsarlon, Iceland

Captured fortresses off Reynisfjara, Iceland

Once over the rainbow.

celandic ponies. They can be exported but that is an exile. For no exported Icelandic pony can ever reenter the country. Nor can any Icelandic pony born elsewhere be imported.

17th Century Iceland: An Alternate Avenue To Wealth

An Alternate Avenue to Wealth

Seventeenth Century Iceland was a hard place to make a go of it. Especially for the lower classes, whom most of that hardship was distributed to. For the have-nots, living on the edge of the Arctic Circle, survival seems to have occupied all the moments of the day. But everyone needs escapist dreams, right? Isn’t that what the lottery is all about?

Well, in 17th century Iceland there was no lottery. So dreams of a better life needed a different outlet. For a small segment of the population that outlet was magic. Or witchcraft if you prefer. Which brought a hope to its believers that a charm or chant would keep the farm’s sheep healthy. Or prevent a storm from drowning a fisherman. Not unlike a prayer for the religious.

But hope can breed desperation. Which led some Icelanders to risk darker magical measures to improve their lot. Take for instance the desire for more milk. An understandable desire for those trying to stave off relentless hunger. Fortunately, a magical process existed for a bounty of milk. Though there was an anatomical price to be paid. But such were the times, that the price was considered reasonable by some who began and ended each day with hunger.

How to get that extra milk on the table? Well if the supplicant followed all the magical steps properly, a small beast would appear. The beast’s specialty was the theft of goat milk. Which it would bring back to its creator after stalking a jittery goat. Such work created a hunger in the beast as well. Conveniently, the beast had no taste for goat’s milk. Which would be contrary to the mission. So the beast had to get its milk from elsewhere. More convenience, as a nipple would grow out of the thigh of the beast’s creator. This was the price the creator paid for his creation. From the thigh nipple, the beast could suckle away on human’s milk. While just above its creator drank endless cups of ill-gotten goat’s milk.

Extra milk is all well and good. But the best way to leave the have-nots and join the haves, then and now, is an influx of money. Once again, black magic in 17th Century Iceland had an answer for the redistribution of wealth. Cue the “nabrok.” Which promised boundless riches. The nabrok directly translates from Icelandic as “death underpants.” For simplicity sake, let’s go with the more common translation of “necropants.” And like all pants, you have to put them on. A very tricky proposition as it turns out.

Let’s work through the process of putting those pants on together. First, we need a protagonist. A 17th Century Icelander living in abject poverty. Desperate enough to try anything to get out of that poverty. Let’s call our protagonist Magnus. (Though there is no reason in the literature why a woman couldn’t put on a pair of necropants, if she chose to do so.) One day, Magnus discovers some black magic that offers the desired escape from that poverty. Though the steps that need to be taken are beyond the range of most human imagination. Magnus hesitates. But the desperation in Magnus grows until it boils. Eventually, he reaches his tolerance limit and takes the plunge into the pool of black magic.

The first step is finding a willing donor. Magnus looks around until he settles on a friend that meets his criteria. One would hope Magnus practiced the conversation extensively before embarking on it. For it is an awkward conversation at best. Let’s say Magnus picks Lief. Who Magnus has to be certain will die before him. Preferably quite soon. If the conversation went perfectly it might sound something like this.

“Hey Lief, how are things?”

“Fine, what can I do for you, Magnus?”

“Well I, I figure you’re going to die before me.”

“Most probably, yeah.”

“Well, I was wondering if I could dig you up after you’re dead and buried?”

“For what purpose, Magnus?”

“It’s a little complicated, but I was hoping to flay your corpse from the waist down. I would do it gently and carefully out of respect for you and also the need to take the skin in one piece.”

“For what purpose, Magnus?”

“Unlimited wealth.”

“Hell, why didn’t you say so to begin with. Of course, I’m at your disposal.”

It is possible to imagine that conversation going in a number of unfortunate directions. But the conversation is critical. Because without permission from the original owner, the necropants will not work as advertised.

Now let’s assume the plan works. Lief dies. Is buried. Is disinterred by Magnus. Skinned. And reinterred. Magnus is standing by the grave bathed in moonlight. He takes off his own pants. Perhaps reconsiders one last time. Then slides his right foot into Lief’s right leg skin. Hopefully, the two men are of similar size. Then the left. Once fully encased, the magic begins. For Lief’s skin forms to Magnus’s body. The psychological ramifications of having a new penis are well beyond the scope of this article. Also beyond the scope is a protagonist choosing an opposite-sex donor. Which would have brought the transgender discussion to the forefront of 17th Century Iceland.

But this is only the first step, so to speak. There are more steps if the wealth is to rain down. Now Magnus has to briefly rob the poor. Black magic never seems to be easy. Specifically, Magnus has to steal a coin from a poor widow. Once he pulls off that low deed, Magnus starts placing things in his new scrotum. First he inserts a nabrokarstafur. Which is an ancient magical symbol written on paper. Then in goes that widow’s coin. Now the scrotum is primed and the magic is up and running. Every time Magnus needs a coin he just reaches down into his jingling scrotum and pulls one out. Preferably he does this privately. The arriving coins will be endless, provided Magnus doesn’t remove the nabrokarstafur and the widow’s coin. The record is unclear as to where a female would place her nabrokarstafur and widow’s coin. Though necessity truly is the mother of invention.

Mission accomplished. Magnus rises out of poverty. An easy life is had, but perhaps a difficult death. For nobody is getting through the pearly gates of heaven wearing someone else’s lower regions. As Magnus nears the end of his life, he must find a willing necropants donee. Otherwise, Magnus and his necropants are headed back to the hard life in a place where global warming is in full swing.

Therefore a second, challenging conversation must take place. “Hey Gunnar, boy do I have a proposition for you.” Let’s assume that Gunnar is joyously receptive to being the new owner of some used necropants. On the appointed day they meet. Preferably privately. Then Magnus willingly steps out of one leg, while Gunnar steps into that same leg. The transition critical, as mutual contact with the necropants must be maintained by the two parties. Or the spell is broken. The image of the transition priceless. Then Gunnar’s other leg goes in. And Magnus steps away.

Gunnar is now ready for an ATM in his underwear. Magnus, back to original, readies for his death. Probably reflecting that robbing a bank might have been easier. And in that way, the necropants could be passed down from generation to generation. Perhaps to this very day. Certainly, the current financial titans of Icelandic industry must be eyed with suspicion. Though to be fair, there is no historical record of the necropants ever being successfully worn. But wouldn’t the successful wearer keep such a thing secret?

Necropants. Witchcraft museum. Holmavik, Iceland

The above is a replica of some necropants found in the Museum of Icelandic Sorcery and Witchcraft. The pile of coins below the necropants indicates the scrotum is still producing. The museum is found in the small town of Holmavik. Which is located in the remote and rural Westfjords of Iceland. A very difficult place to survive in 17th Century Iceland. Which is why witchcraft was more prevalent there than in other parts of Iceland.

But the practice of witchcraft in the Westfjords during the 17 Century was a dangerous endeavor. This was due to the behavior of the educated upper classes in the area. Many of whom had studied in Germany and Denmark. Where they learned of the witch execution craze that had taken place earlier in those countries. Upon return to Westfjords, these wealthy individuals decided to root out witchcraft in their neck of the woods. Which predictably they believed to be practiced exclusively by the lower classes. To accomplish the rooting, these individuals turned to the judicial system.

During the 17th Century, 120 accusations of practicing witchcraft were brought to trial in Iceland. An unusual percentage of them in the Westfjords. The trials can be seen as a form of class warfare. Since almost all of the accused were from the lower classes. Unlike the rest of the world though, most of the accused were men. In fact, 110 of the 120 labeled as witches were male. Of the 120 accused, 22 were found guilty and sentenced to death. Once again the ratio was disproportionately male, as only one female was executed.

The accusations ranged from the serious, causing death and destruction through witchcraft, to the ridiculous, causing a young girl to fart uncontrollably. No alleged necropants’ wearers were tried. The vast majority of the convicted were burned alive. The museum documents one unfortunate individual whose binding ropes burned off before their death. Allowing them to run out of the fire, on fire, while protesting their innocence. All of this nonsense continued until the craze faded. As they all must. After 1686, there were no more witch trials in Iceland. Which left all the necropants’ wearers unmolested to go about their business. Literally.

The Death Q, My Guide to an 811 Mile Mojave Desert Hike, is Published!

It’s here!! After a couple years of writing, The Death Q is finally up and available on Amazon. The book is about a hike I created that circles Death Valley following abandoned railroads. The book is a mix of history, guide, detective work, how to, character biographies, fiction and memoir. Admittedly it as a labor of love about an obscure topic. But, hopefully, both the hiker and non-hiker will find it entertaining. Regardless, it is something I set out to do and did. And sometimes that alone is plenty.

Feel free to share the word if you know anyone that might have an interest in such endeavors. Here’s the link to the page on Amazon where you can buy the Paperback or a Kindle version. Share. Post. Click. Repeat. Oh, and get some good boots if you are going to try the hike.

Thanks!

 

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