August 18, 2013
25 miles today
Mile 2150

Morning was cold as we had slept higher than the sun. The sunrise from below, slow to warm. We left the village in shifts of pairs. Being the second shift we were out by 6:30 AM. I thought of the night. I had difficulty letting go of the day as I had learned, with signal, of the early death of an acquaintance.

Finally fell asleep, but was awakened by a cacophony of snoring and flatulence. Everyone seemed to be on it. Thru hikers are probably the only subset of American society where farting is both openly accepted as necessary and as a method of informed commentary. By the way the average American male farts 14 times a day, females 11 times a day. I would consider thru hikers to be above average folks.

Stayed high for 6 miles, giving Mount Hood its due every break in the trees. Then a flip-flop to the other side of the ridge brought me to a talus slope. Suddenly the earth gave up a big view. Starting on the left, the decapitated Mount Saint Helens. Though because of poor behavior her saint status should be reconsidered. Center, Mount Adams. And to the right Mount Rainier. I grabbed a handful of raspberries and took in the show.

Decided to take the eagle creek alternate which routes away from the PCT for 15 miles. It passes through the densest concentration of high waterfalls in North America. Who can resist waterfalls? A spring rest, followed by a big fall straight down a ridgeline. Impossible not to exceed the speed limit. Eventually the pounding stopped as the trail joined the creek and it’s more gentle wandering. Waterfall after fall vied for attention. No two alike. Can a waterfall ever be boring? At times the trail cut into solid cliff to scoot around narrow falls. And the highlight, tunnel falls. A high tight cascade approached on a three sided rock cut trail. A misstep on the fourth side would be unfortunate. Standing back to watch, I saw Orbit approach the falls, walk into it and come out the other side. A tunnel being both the secret and namesake.

The crowd thickened as it was a Sunday of respite. Came to Punchbowl Falls with its big pool running deep. Climbed down to a leap point but a posted personal narrative of crushed vertebrae changed our thinking. Canada being our primary responsibility. The temperature moved up and the trail stretched long. The path rocky and intent on chipping bone. Finally the crowded parking lot and the relief of asphalt walking. Joined an old touring road for when cars toured, now converted into a bikepath. It’s borders thick with neglected blackberries . We paid attention.

The bike path led into the town of Cascade Locks, the last whistle stop in Oregon. Unwashed and non-presentable we secured shelter and food in close order and proximity. A shower, sediment flowing into a hole. And then a tackle of a backload of work from the softest office bed I’ve ever had the pleasure of. I couldn’t stop sighing. Meanwhile orbit watched Rainman. I swear she came up with the toothpick answer before Dustin Hoffman’s character did. At midnight I shut it down and burrowed in.

I held off sleep as long as possible just to savor the kindness of a civilized mattress. I’m sure I slept smiling.

Steve Halteman
On the Pacific Crest Trail
Hiking the PCT for the Kids of Escuela Verde

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